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 January - February 2008

:: CONTENTS
:: From the Chairman's Desk
:: SILK EXPORT & IMPORT REVIEW
:: HEIMTEXIL EXHIBITION, JANUARY 2008
:: BECOMING HIGH PERFORMANCE ORGANISATION
:: NEWS - INTERNATIONAL
:: COLOUR TRENDS-PREMIERE VISION 2008-09
:: DUTY DRAWBACKS RATES (AMENDMENTS)
:: TEX-STYLES INDIA 2008
:: FROM SURVEY TO SUCCESS GUIDELINES FOR EXPORTING OUTERWEAR TO THE EU
 

COLOUR TRENDS-PREMIERE VISION 2008-09

     

A Season for inventing tomorrow’s reality, and writing modern fables with fabrics. Lovingly uniting fabric materiality and air, to affirm the alchemy of a fashion structured yet free of constraint. Accentuating the riven, to take flight with all the lightness of colour, density and suaveness. Playing on the ambiguities of ultra-monochrome or extreme contrasts. Disguising transgression with a forward looking energy. Shifting the axis, and anachronistically digressing. Encountering suppleness, Flirting with ruggedness, and rendering generously visible. Confidently holding on to the imaginary thread of creativity, to realise all possibilities.

SPIRIT OF SEASON
Ambivalence

Being swallowed by duality with all the energy of its advantage and richness. Striking a balance between an inner intimacy and an outer superficiality the personal and the public, modesty and unbridled excess. Simultaneously satisfying a need for what is essential and a desire for frivolity. Grooming appearance to the extreme while cultivating secret gardens. Multiplying sparks of contact between the visible and the hidden, the interior and the exterior. Revelling in affinities between the everyday and the exceptional, between irony and perfection, aesthetic and ethics.

Playing on ambiguities between what is diffused and neat, upsetting reality through chines disturbed by neatness. Listening to the unclear confidences of the fabrics, with the blurred structures of generous and contrasting yarns and of determined brushings. Being carried away by beneficent and delicate shading, favoring fabrics with a whitened mist to better reveal their matter. Bringing to light one’s hesitations and perplexities through scrawled, Scratched, wavering and patterns.

Cultivating the Connivances between animal and vegetal, with wools infiltrated by linens, hemp, cotton or paper, to exalt unusual behavior and handles. Fostering confusion and creating mutant beings and hybrid animal with quilted silks, between knits and woven. Savoring the complicities between blackness and colours, making butterflies vibrate in the dark of night for exciting shot fabrics, for bright and mysterious blackening. Exhilarating in strange digressions, and letting deviant and diverging patterns come into the light. Embracing all-in-oneness to satisfy appearance, comfort and aesthetics with perfect reversible, double faces with contrasting or insidiously opposites colours, aspects and patterns.

Alchemy

Being touched by transformations of raw material, and diving into the power of living. Finding inspiration in natural or artificially stimulated metamorphoses, to transcribe the beauty found in bubbling effervescence, in fusion and dispersion. Seeking harmony in chaos, deconstructing so as to reconstruct, and modifying in order to embellish. Passionately experimenting with mutation of raw materials to attain and tactile exception. Diving into turbulence of nature to wrap oneself in fabrics with tormented, striated and veined surfaces. Underlining the eternity of time with fossilised waffling and jellified motifs.

Moving into vegetal visuals to transform them into felted looks with haphazard volumes. Playing on the forces of the improbable to surpass the know in airy and generous jacquards, knits and laces.
Relying on irregularities in yarns and fabrics to be swathed in an off beat rusticity, with sturdy cottons, woolens, with sophisticated brushings and evanescent knits. Exacerbating the prickly and harsh handles of dry woolens and crepes. Moving closer to the visual hardness of boiled fabrics to lend military looks a romantic air, to disorganized brushed broadcloths, warmed up suitings, and bumpy felts.

Diving into the changing states of .uid matter and perfecting shirrings in improbable moirés. Cultivating the versatility of liquid reflection and congealing polluted shadow in fabrics, through creamy silks with runny thickness, through denims and cottons with viscous coating and leather reflections. Becoming a gold digger, and capturing the fleetingness of unreal oxidation and marvelous substances with tweeds, moving embroideries and prints.

Anticipation

Going beyond the known, and adopting a futuristic and poetic approach. Opting for the anachronism that derails logics and opens the door to inspiring shifts and derivations. Finding anchor in the present, to project into, and dreams of, a different reality. one still out of focus, yet in the process of becoming. Relying on the optimistic energy of imaginary worlds to discover fabrics that invite us to think of clothing in a different way. Trying to put technologies at the service of the imagination, to provoke new partnerships between aesthetic and scientific research, between the organic and the industrial. Relying on what is visible to take flight and open the roads running between extreme discretion and emphasis.

Using all performance features to adapt them to daily reality, with woollens, Suitings and cottons that have clearly necessary and perfectly in visible functions. Perfecting the synthetic spirit to adapt it to an urban dynamic, through dense and smooth, matte and draping fabrics, distinctly removed from traditional gleaming reflection.

Flirting with opposites, and defying paradoxes, with fabrics with a generous but supple thickness, with an intense yet tender heaviness.

Sublimating the nobility of fine material to give it the weight of roundness and an invitation to ampleness.

Drawing on contradiction and eluding impossibilities, marrying suppleness to squareness, circumventing the rigour of hollow diagonals and ottomans with anachronistic engineering.

Juggling with divergences between the exterior and the interior, taking cheer from the apparent coldness of double faces with technical visuals and with warmly brushed interiors.

Inventing unexpected focal points between microscopic and grandiose, from semi plains to giant graphics. Contrasts are not modulated, they .aunt themselves. Patterns are all-invasive and fabrics dematerialise into glassy veils.

Visualizing technology in structures with organized juttings, with bulky quiltings and jacquards, stuffings with sharpened texture, plastic shine. Overtly showing off futuristic influences and wrapping oneself in fabrics with technical visuals and functions, given a boost with fancy motifs.
 
SEDUCTION
The fancy and fluid universe

The universe of seduction and fantasy never ceases perfecting and adjusting weights and behaviors to new uses, adapted to contemporary lifestyles. Coats, jackets and others structured pieces are limitlessly enlivened, wool inserts or imposes itself in silks, lace and embroideries. Air .lls and lighten fabrics in thickened, exacerbated, puffy volumes, for skilful combinations of materiality and malleability. In all knows-hows, shine is vibrant, plastic or muffled. Decoration are divided between organic abstraction and complex graphics

Decors
On the one hand, nature in the total metamorphosis inspire informal patterns ranging between mimicry material effects. Marbled prints, bumpy jacquards, animal and mineral digression, seismic laces, scrawled, shirred, organic embroideries. In contrast, decors risks a certain grandiloquence, giant patters grow rampant, scale are overdrawn, lace is grandiose, precious silk are updated through non traditional patterns, embroideries dare accumulations with appliqués on decorative bases. Prints .aunt their artistic references, citing painters, illustrator and artists, both contemporary and past. Graphics create a hybrid of nature and geometry, while contrasts are tempered to avoid being aggressive. Ultra coded paisleys Scarf and exotic designs are treated with humor and irony, and manipulated with a grating virtuosity.

Coats
Coats take greedily to decoration. Thick wools are generously embroidered or sculpted with visible structures, giant honeycombs, and extroverted jacquards. Combining volume and lightness, waffled, quilted and bulky raised texture suggest unusual shapes and unlined uses. Shine grows plastic or oxidised. Woollens are enlivened by cellophane yarns, are covered with vinyl transparencies or evoke patinated metal. Tweeds and carded wools are softened for deconstructed and enveloping shapes that seek thickness without weight. Checks are more irreverent and flirt with eccentricity, either ultra-graphic of roughly boiled.

Ensembles
Medium weight with a lightly augmented density targeted coat/dress ensembles. Wool and silk multiply their connivances, in bi-material jacquards, geometric waffles, bark textures, precious sandwiches or bulky fabrics that are at once cosy and vaporous. The Structures of ottomans and silky fancy wovens are amplified and underlined. Plain or jacquard metallic are oxidised, coal-dusted, and shot looks are blackened. Lame and brocade evoke sophisticated bodyworks, the carapaces of beetles animated by sumptuously modernised graphics. A’40s conture spirit is expressed in blurred fabrics, silky throwns and tweeds, punctuated by mini retro geometrics for women’s suits with an ultra feminine bulky volume.

Dresses and Tops
Dresses and blouses open themselves to the sophistication of synthetic or warm laces inviting day-to-day employ, as well as to layerings and innovative uses. Decor is engineered, or elaborated in details. Silks with lacquered effects, wet aspects and crepes .nd interpretation in knits and wovens, combined with draping or washed behaviours fro dresses or tops. Knit plays on discreet shine, with jerseys with underlying sparkle. A woolly lightness is imposed in tops through to misty veils, delicately boiled, opaque etamines, Knits with a suave and warm .neness, and plays on open worked stitches.

RELAX
The casualwear, sportswear and jeanswear universe

The relaxed universe pursues its quests for refinement by favouring connections between a casual attitude and quality. More than ever, finding the right balance between weights, handles and behaviours is the key to creating products that are softy structured and free of stiffness. Cottons work with collusion with synthetics, consistency teams with suaveness, weaves are drawn discreetly and mattness gains ground. Suiting visuals adopt a clearly cottony and sportswears identity. Asphalt aspects emerge in denim, cotton and knits with a muf.ed gleam and rubbery touches. Knits ally comforts and fantasy by flirting with jackets and blouson weights.

Casual Pants
A suiting influences generates patterns with multiple interpretations: clearly contrasted with tiny country-style checks and English–style tattersall, or discreetly blurred. With neatness and softness, cottons and corduroys features impeccable surfaces traced with imperceptible weaves. They are softened through emerised, subtly whitened finishings, and are warmed up with a hint of wool. Irregular weaves allows yarn irregularities to emerge on the surface for raw visuals with soft handles. Shine is synthetic, underlying, and attenuated by weaves or emerised finishings.

Jackets/coats and outwear cotton is repeatedly call upon to enhance comfort and protection. It is both technically and 100% natural, water-resistant thanks to imperceptible treatments, soft and generous with moleskin and wide-wale corduroys, compact and soft with pea-coat style double faces. Knits are imposed in jacket and blouson weights, with interlocks or wooly double knits. A technical gleam dress cotton / polyamides, which play on tactile contrasts, opposing brushed backs and smooth glazed faces. Plastic shine is expressed through crackled vinyls and varnishes playing on the ambiguity between animal and mineral.

Denims
Denim pursues its quest for chicness with neat visuals reminiscent of suitings, with dense and covered weaves right up to stains. “Flannel” finishing and true wool blends, in accents, warm up denim with causing them to lose their identity. Refinement plays on contrast, with indigos with colourful or shiny backs, to lend attention to the reverse side of clothing, or cuffs. Flirting with rawness, weaves show off yarn irregularities and plays on fibers with strong character, such as linen, raw silk or even banana.

Shirtings and overshirtings variations around the theme of checks: re-sized tartans either very small or very large, darkened handkerchiefs checks, windowpane checks in softened colours set off with touches of freshness. Cottons have relaxed or overdyed finishing. In prints, for shirtings and tops, there are .oral .lled with muffled colourways, minigeometrics and Art Nouveau motifs.

Sweats and Knits tops relaxed knits wear emphasises noble blends and refined visuals. Wool joined with cotton in double faces that ally exterior warmth and comfort close to the skin. Knits mix with vicose for the creamy consistency, and push luxury all the way to pure cashmere. Jersey are refined to the point of translucency, for layerings and combinations of greedy colours. Dense and flexible, cottons favours a heightened elasticity for product with shapely lines. As for decor, the two toned simplicity of sailor stiff to sophisticated through the use of muffled chine and plain colours.

DISTINCTION
The elegant, formal and tailored universe
The universe of distinction and tailoring takes a determined part towards fashion that is on the one hand influenced by couture and on the other by a soft and relaxed elegance. Beyond visible effect, fabrics interiorize their full scope of richness in behavours amnd handles, creating material to sculpt and shape. They suggested clothing oriented to rounded and angular lines, and reserved or pronounced silhouettes. In menswear and womenswear, knits and wovens cultivate ambiguity. Shirting grow darker, playing on a total look, or provide a subtle shift in context through affirm rhythms and contrasts.

Coats
Coatings incarnate the full power of textile expression. Reversible showcase double plays on fabrics or colours, alteration discretion and fantasy. Double weaves and knits grow thicker, right up to overcoat weights. Softness is extreme, with cashmere and alpacas that are almost suave, and hairy and brushed fabrics that are profoundly soft. Boiled fabrics and felted knits are crushed and compressed for stiffened pea coat. Cottons with lustrous and satiny visual are .rmly set, hermetically closed. A chic technology is affirmed through pure or blended synthetics, which fully assumed their specific handle and crunch.

Jackets
A uniform influence with tight cavalry twills, cover cloth and wool/cotton knits, for almost hard handles. Flannels, tennis strips and elegant Prince of Wales adopt blurry visual and delicately washed finishings. Tweeds and Shetlands are more supple, and drawn with peacefully coloured check. Openly mistreated, raw boiled fabrics with slightly lumpy surface bring out fibers oppositions in wool, cotton and linen. Consistency and suppleness are combine in double crepes and weaves with a thick roundness for women’s jacket and cropped coats.

Men’s and Women’s suits
High-Tech nobility emerge in compact wools with a dry glazed, almosttechnical, handles. Dynamics elasticity enriches the fluidity of wool/polyamide or wool/viscose blends. Fineness touches on performance, with perfectly opaque lightness, downy flannels, and superfine wools with barely- there brushing. Masculine suitings play on archetypes of seriousness: microscopic end-and-ends, ultra-simple stripes, and invisible performance.

Dress and Skirts
Clearly feminine wool and specific weights targeting dress: wool crepes, warm and fluid viscose blends, glazed or satiny shine. Small graphic two-tone with a ‘40s spirit, and jersey and interlock to be used like wovens.

Shirts
Ever finer, ever more chic, dense and light, cotton move closer to silky handles with impeccable mercerisings and glaze aspects. Patterns grow miniature to the point of semi-plains, imitating suitings in ends-and-ends or micro houndstooths with optically grayed colourways, while in a bolder direction, stripes with strong contrasts play on accentuated and non- synchronized rhythms. Fine knits, blocked and mercerized, verge on an urban elegance.

Small knitted items
Patterns grow ever finer to resemble semi plains with end-and-ends effects and mini-geometrics. Flaunting tradition, diamond play on scale, is recomposed in engineering patterns, and play on extra-soft colourways.

Linings
To more closely follow fabrics evolutions, linings are high performance, stretch, easy-care or anti-bacterial. To play on surprise and contrast, metallic gleam, extravagant patterns and spectacular stripes await offbeat uses.

Man’s Focus disguising discretion: rethinking the chic of grey blends, flannels vigoureux and end-and-ends for a true total look. Using coats, suits, shirts and polos to make almost maniacal tone-on-tones playing on ambiguities: raising imperfection to the level of perfection, and teaming the impeccable with the relaxed, neatness with the generously blurry. Meticulously finished details in rawness, and a negligent treatment of strictness. Combining ultra-chic shirtings with puffy woollens , knits or woven, in the same silhouette. Eluding rigour: fabrics with the allure of uniforms have their codes diverted for clothing with off beat shapes. Pea coats, military greatcoats, regiments-styles cavalry twills and work-force clothing are pacified by the colourful ingenuity of casual shirts, either square-lined or flowered assuming contrasts: cultivating the art of surprises through unexpected multilayers. Confidently drawing silhouettes with precious blackness that are enlivened by bold colour contrasts. Unveiling under asphalt- reflection overcoats springy suitings and shirts with strong and daring graphic accents.

PULSATION
The sport, technical and performance universe

The active and technical universe, whether for sport, beach or lingerie, con.rm its enthusiasm for high tech research to enhance performance or address environment concerns. Aesthetics are of growing importance, and often provide the key to differentiation. Nature, a source of sporting pleasure, calls for respect and reciprocity, while fashion imposes seductive, innovative and fantasy products. The most advanced technologies are put at the service of visual aspects and sought –out behaviors, while .ber target made –to-measure functionally and protection. Depending on each product’s final destination, stretch targets either comfort or springiness, while weight and behaviours vary between lightness and density.

Outdoor/outerwear activewear with particularly urban aspects, where nature and technology combine for the best: wool is boosted by thermal fibers or high- performance bondings and members; denims and cottons adopt climatic and/or waterproof functions for board sports. For reinforcements and protective clothing, high-resistance synthetics have a comfortable flexibility. They adopt a spruce allure, as in distinct weaves and discreet matte and shiny damasks. A silky spirit moves into outwear with shot, water-resistance fabrics and dyed-yarn checks in a taffeta spirit, and brushed or powdery metallic shine. Crunchy featherweights are adorned in lacquered reflection for products to be wadded or quilted. For light outwear that can be worn alone or layered under heavier items, ultra stretch augments the performance of membranes, bondings, windproofings, breathable and/or water-resistant properties. Double faces and softshells play on the technology/comfort alliance, as in protective synthetics with warm backs. Fleeces are complex, enriched with water-resistant and breathing functions, or enriched with wool to provide more softness and warmth.

Under garments beachwear continued emphasis on greater performance, here suited to contact with the skin: climatic, thermal, anti bacterial, fast drying. For beachwear, anti-UV and chlorine resistant functionalities are proposed for graphic knits with hold, either tone-on-tone for jacquards or energetic for prints and stripes.

Lingerie fibers with perfectly-adapted functionalities are discreetly integrated to favour a certain well-being and comfort. Lingerie oscillates between a vaunted technology and the most intimate softness. Visuals are discreet, stripes miniaturised and neural. Corsetry lace is ultra fine, playing on prickly and delicate flowers.

Fibre innovations, textile creations envisioning the future of a product as of its inception, looking ahead to each stage of its manufacture, right up to its disintegration, with natural or synthetic, recyclable or recycled fibers. The family of fibres developed responsibly from natural is growing: banana, coconut, corn, soy, paper, kapok, algae, milk or crustacean chitin.

CUSTOMS NOTIFICATION
Customs Notification no. 120/2007 dated 13/12/07. In exercise of the powers conferred by sub-section (2) of section 75 of the Customs Act,1962 (52 of 1962),sub -section (2) of section 37 of the Central Excise Act,1944 and section 93 A and sub-section (2) of section 94 of the Finance Act,1994 ( 32 of 1994) read with rules 3 and 4 of the Customs, Central Excise Duties and Service Tax Drawback Rules, 1995,the Central Government, hereby makes the following amendments in the notification of the Government of India in the Ministry of Finance (Department of Revenue),No. 68/2007-Customs (N.T.) dated the 16th July 2007 (hereinafter referred to as the said notification),namely:-

In the said notification, in the schedule :- (b) in Chapter 50,

(i) in the entry in column 2 against tariff item 500701,the entry “ SILK FABRICS CONTAINING 85% OR MORE BY WEIGHT OF SILK OR OF SILK WASTE OTHER THAN NOIL SILK” shall be substituted;

(ii) for the entry in column 2 against tariff item 500702,the entry “FABRICS OF NOIL SILK” shall be substituted;

   
 




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