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 May - June 2008

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Garment manufacturing proces

     

A tech pack is informatimative sheet which encompasses all the specifications of the requirements before embarking on the garment manufacturing process.

TECHPACK IS A DOCUMENT THAT
contains all the details of any specific style of the garment. This document is usually prepared by the designer and finalised in consultation with the merchandisers, and then forwarded to bulk sampling department or to the production department for the reference and guide for bulk manufacturing.

THE OBJECTIVE
The Objective here is, once techpack for any style is frozen, the production department must be able to go ahead with the manufacturing process without having to refer back to the designer for any aspect of production. The merchandisers are thus able to go ahead and ensure that the required material as per the techpack is made available to the production department, in the right quantities at the right time. The marketing department can use this document in their presentation, particularly to the large format stores and their key customers. The preparation of a techpack and using it to manage and co-ordinate various activities in production brings in efficiency within the company as, various departments refers to the common document for discussion or carrying out any activity.

Almost all garment manufacturing companies prepare a techpack. In many cases, the cutting instructions or job card issued to production acts as the techpack. However, the details given in the techpack are likely to vary with the sizes of the company. Large manufacturing companies generally have a detailed techpack for each of the styles under production, for the simple reason that any manufacturing that is not in line with what was desired results in a huge production loss. For exporters, preparation of a techpack is almost mandatory, as the buyers prefer to sign on the techpack before placing the order or would send in a techpack themselves.

TECHPACK TECHNICALITIES
The complexity involved in bulk manufacturing of the styles also governs the contents of the techpack, even if the designers are personally involved in the manufacturing especially on high-end fashion garments. From a regular men’s shirt made out of a single fabrics to a complex style for women involving two or more garments (a top, a bottom and probably an inner are sold together under one pack as a single style), with each garment involving multiple fabrics and trims, topped with additional production process such as embroidery, printing, patch work etc. The production flow, care and control needed while production will differ, and so will the form and content of the techpack for such styles. A detailed techpack is usually prepared for styles that have been approved for bulk manufacturing and for which elements such as the kind of fabrics and trims have been frozen. Before this stage, the designers may make various combinations of styles for approval and keep a note of the activities that have gone into creation of each combination of the styles.
We now discuss the various content of a techpack and how they contribute in efficient manufacturing of the garments, Read the table on next page:

S.No PARTICULARS DETAILS REMARKS
1 Techpack no. Serial numbers of the techpack and its issue date  
2 Style name

The commercial name of the style for which the techpack is being prepared. In case the commercial name is yet to be given, then it will bethe sampling reference number issued by the designers

 
3 Shades/colours

Names of various shades or washes or colours in which the style will be manufactured.

In some cases, the style number itself contains the colour name.

4 Style description

A general description of the style with respect to its key features.

 
5 Designer’s names

Names of the designer who can be referred to when needed.

 
6 Production ratio

The ratio and the total quantity for production for each of the colours.

 
7 Customer’s names

Applicable where production is on job work basis, or is dedicated to a customer.

 
8

Fabrics involved in each shade

Fabric name or number or sort number of the fabric, or each of the fabrics in case of multiple fabrics that will go for each of the shades, or colour, along with per unit average consumption-fabrics wise.
A cutting of the fabric(s) is also usually attached to the techpack.

The average consumption per unit for each of the fabrics will determine the fabric requirement.

9 Drawings of the style

A handmade drawing, or an image of the sample to which the techpack refers.

A visual drawing helps quicker identification of the style.

10 Size measurement chart

The size chart for each of the production parameters for that style. It alsoincludes placement of the trims, or of printing or embroidery

 
11 Pattern number

The number or name of the pattern that have to be used for cutting fabrics for this style. These pattern also depend upon the client’s equirements in case of customer centric production.

 
12 Trims required

A list of trims along with quantity and allowance for wastage needed for the production of this style. A sample of trim also can eattached/affixed with the techpack. Trims include size labels, wash care labels, barcodes, price tag zippers, buttons, cuffs and collars.

Very often, the production of a style gets halted because a trim such as a label or a rivet required in the production is not available when required. A precise list of trims listed in the techpack will enable the merchandiser to ensure that the trims are available at the right time.

13 Production process involved

List of various stage of production that this style will go through. Along with specifications for each of the process. Some processes may be required to be carried out on specific equipments only.

Detailed instruction for each of the production process involved that require special attention. Drawing for the specific areas such as pocketing style, lupis style, etc are also indicated against
each production process.

14 Production parties involved

The designer or merchandiser may specify the job workers who will carry out the various production process involved, depending upon the skill set or washing required for manufacturing this style.

 
15 Material used for production

Specification for threads, needles etc used for over all stitching, or for specific stitching etc.

The thread used must go with the quality of the fabrics.

16 Packing instruction

Various stages for folding and packing of the garments, trims and accessories used while packing. List of buttons, threads attached etc if applicable along with the garments.

Packing styles vary from style to style depending upon their anufacturing process. Embroidery or art work may need to be displayed prominently by folding and packing the style in particular manner.

17 General comments

General comments on the overall manufacturing cycle.

 
18 Approved by

The authority approving the techpack.

 

As the contents of the techpack vary from style to style, in most cases, the techpack is prepared in Microsoft Word or Excel and then issued to various persons. However, most of the modern software application for apparel also includes facilities for capturing information of the techpack in the database. This information can then be converted into a cost sheet, and also the basis for placing purchase orders for trims or fabrics, after taking into account the overall requirements of any specific trims or fabrics across various styles, available stocks, minimum order quantity, lead time etc.

ENHANCING SYSTEMs

Due to globalization in the garment industry and bigger brands entering their fray, it is getting pertinent for the manufacturer to enhance their production capabilities by incorporating proper system and infrastructure in their organization to cater to the exact market demand in terms of quantity and timely production of uniform quality. Preparation of an effective techpack will mean reduce communication between manufacturing units and the design department wherein the latter is expected to be involved in making newer design for the next season. An effective techpack also means that the merchandise department can work in tandem with the stores department for accessing current stock availability and linking it with the overall requirement, purchase department for placing purchase order and follow up on pending purchase order, finance department for assessing financial requirements for the season’s production etc.

The marketing department can also do a pre sell based on the techpack and the samples available and coordinate with production in terms of overall quantities put into production and expected market requirements etc. A structured techpack also creates a wealth of information for the manufacturing company over a period of time wherein can view the previous work done for future projections. Overall, it brings in a lot of certainty for company operations and creates a sense of confidence amongst customer and supplier.

A techpack is generally closed after comparing the estimated quantities for manufacturer and estimated costs for that manufacture with the actual quantities manufactured, the actual costs incurred, final comparison with actual orders received and money realized. This way, the techpack also becomes a cost centre on its own.

SEAL THE DEAL

There can be no short cuts to putting in an efficient manufacturing system in the organization, and preparation and finalisation of a formal techpack can be a worthy exercise before commencing actual production. It is the measured output from the design department and a bible for styles, for all the other personnel in the organization. It is also a reflection of the care that the company takes in documenting its production processes in particular and overall documentation in general.


   
 




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